Improvement in drafting apparatus for ladiesj dresses



3 Sheets-Sheet I.

C. H. GRIFFIN. Drafting Apparatus for Ladies Dresses.

Patented Oct. 9, 1877.

N.PETERS. PNOTO-LITHOGRAFNER, WASHINGTON. D C

a sheetssheet 2. C. H. GRIFFIN. Drafting Apparatus for Ladies' Dresses.

No. 195,926. Patented Oct. 9, 1877..

3l 33 36 37 solszlmlalarlu l- 1 N.PE.RSA PHOLI'D-LITHUGHAPNER.WASHINGTON, D (I4 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

C. H. GRIFFIN. Drafting Apparatus for Ladies Dresses.

No. 195,926. Patented Oct. 9, 1877.

i /MWW Mw/Ww@ NzFETERS. PMOT0-L|THOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON. n C.

UNITED STATES PATENT QEEIGE.

CALEB H. GRIFFIN, OF LYNN, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF HIS RIGHT TO ELIZABETHELLEN DURGIN,

OF MALDEN CENTRE, MASS.

IMPROVEMENT IN DRAFTING APPARATUS FOR LADIES DRESSES.

Speciiication forming part of Letters Patent No. 195,926, dated October9, 1877; application filed April 30, 1877.

To all whom 'it may concern:

Be it known that I, CELEB HENRY GEIE- FIN, of the city of Lynn, Essexcounty, and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and ImprovedCombination of Devices called The American Drafting-Machine in Paper, ofwhich the following is a specification:

The nature-of my invention is that of a device in the form of a patternfurnished with scales, perforations, and indicating-characters; and theobject is to facilitate the making of a paper pattern for the cuttingout of dresses.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 shows one side of my device. Fig. 2shows the other side. Fig. 3 is a representation of the pattern calledScale O, hereinafter referred to, which is the subject of anotherapplication by myself, now before the Patent Office.

In the drawings, Fig. l represents a pattern of six sides, one of themcurved, provided with scales and indicating-figures on ve sides, andwith three scales with gures, and two of these with perforations in thebody of the same. Four curved lines are also seen, and are hereinafteradverted to.

At the edges of the two shorter sides are seen, respectively, twoscales, each marked Back neck, the lines marking divisions of one eighthinch each, and numbered, respectively, from 17 to 49, inclusive. It willbe seen that the left-hand back-neck scale is at right angles to thebase-line in the drawing, while the corresponding right-hand scale is atan obtuse angle to the base-line.

The curves seen in Fig. 1, marked, respect ively, Back-arm size, Sideseam, and Back-form,7 and one with no mark, are explained (by thedirections for their use) in the clauses of the specification entitledOperation.

The base-line of Fig. 1 is marked with a scale of inches, and halves andquarters of inches, and the longer lines are numbered from 2 to 17,inclusive. Above the scale, in the drawing, is seen another lineparallel with it, marked Slope of shoulder, or lower point of back-armsize. This line has upon it a scale with lines marking divisions of halfan inch, and shorter lines half-way between, both series of lines beingmarked with gures, from 17 to 45, inclusive.

Running up perpendicular-ly from the bascline of Fig. 1 is a line markedWidth of back,

which bears a scale whose longer lines indicate divisions of one inch,and are marked with the numbers 4 to 10, inclusive. The spaces betweenthese lines are subdivided into spaces of one-quarter of an inch each bvthrce shorter lines, respectively, and each line is furnished with aperforation.

On the longer left-hand side ofthe device is a scale marked Shoulder ofback,7 divided by lines one inch apart, which lines are marked 1 to 10,inclusive. Shorter lines, between the numbered lines, divide thesespaces into equal parts.

At the right hand in Fig. l is seen a line running at right angles tothe baseline of the figure, and marked Line of waist for back,7 andprovided with a scale marked Waistscale for back, which is divided bylines numbered from 17 to 45, inclusive, and furnished with aperforation at each line.

The curved side of the device is also provided with a scale marked Sideseam, and divided by lines numbered from 1 to 11, inclusive, withshorter lines equidistantly placed between them. The use of these scalesis indicated in the clause of this specification describing theoperation of the invention.

In Fig. 2 the base-line is the same as in Fig. 1. In Fig. 2 is seen anumber of scales, lines, curves, and perforations, described seriazfimhereinafter. At the right of the center of the gure is seen a series oftwenty-six parallel lines of varying length, their ends, respectively,connected by a line, on each of which lines (twenty-iive of which arenumbered 20 to 44, inclusive) is a series of perforations, one at eachend of each of the lines, the whole forming a diagram markedFront-armsize scale, while below, on the lower side of the diagram, arethe words Breast or slope of shoulder; take smallest number for frontarmsize.

On the base-line, at the edge of the device, to the left of the centerof the same, is a scale whose lines are numbered 17 to 45, inclusive,

and the marking attached to this scale is 4# Use breast-measure forfront neck.

On the base-line, also at the edge, is another scale, with the linesmarked 17 to 44, inclusive, the lnarking attached to this scale beingUse breast -measure for height of darts.

At the right of the figure is the shortest of the side lines of thedevice. From the top of this shortest side a line is seen to be drawn atan acute angle toward the base-line. This line is marked Lay this lineon front for top of dart.

Above the last-named line, and parallel with it, is a short line runningfrom the top ofthe short side toward the base-line, and markedWaist-line.

On the longest side, at the right in the ii gure, on the edge of thedevice, are two scales, one marked Scale for top of front dart No.1.Each alternate (longer) line of this scale is iigured from 20 to 44,inclusive. The other scale, on the edge 011 this side, is marked Scalefor top of back dart No. 2, and is formed of lines marked 21 to 45,inclusive. Beneath the title above mentioned are the directions Use backdart-scale to get front-Waist line, and Lay size of Waist 011 side seamand dot waist-line.

At the top of Fig. 2, 011 the edge of the curved side, is a scale markedButton-space,77 composed of longer lines, marked 21 toV 45, inclusive,with intermediate shorter lines.

Through the center, horizontally, of Fig. 2 a line is drawn, ruimingfrom the right-hand bound of the diagram marked Front-armsize scale tothe extreme left-hand end of the pattern. This is furnished withperforations at each point of its junction with the parallel lines ofthe dart-space, the first perforation being the largest. This line ismarked Chestscale, with the direction Iut this line 011 size of chest.

At the left hand in Fig. 2 the device is fashioned to an obtuse angle,Whose sides are connected by twelve parallel lines drawn equidistantlyat right angles to the base-line in Fig. 2. A line is seen drawn fromthe apex of the triangle to the base-line of the same, at the junctionof which line with each of the parallel lines, respectively, is seen aperforation. This combination of devices is marked Dart-space, with thedirection parallel with the base-line Put this line over line of chest.

The curved (top) line in Fig. 2 is marked Side seam.

The lower half of the left-hand side of the device in Fig. 2 is markedCenter line of back neck,77 and is used in connection with the baselineof Fig. 2, and also with the curved neck-line. (Seen in the drawing.)

One straight line and three curved lines, With different centers, areseen in the body ot' the device in Fig. 2.

The uses of these various scales and indicating-figures, and of thevarious perforations, lines, Snc., described above, are fully explainedhereinafter.

The notes of directions to be printed on the device are given here inorder that the speciication may embody a complete description and fulldirections for use of the device. I sometimes use letters or othercharacters in place of figures on the scales.

Operation: The operation of my invention is best described by my Rulesfor taking measures and drafting ladies dresses.

1. Slope of meldden-Pass the tape around the back of neck and down frontof arm-size, directly back across the back, even with armpit. lut a pinin center of back, top of tape; measure from neck-bone to pin. Themeasure from bone to pin is the slope. This measure is to be used in theback, and only for front-arm size When it gives the smallest number.When the breast-measure is the smallest, use it to get front-arm sizeand height of dart. Vhen the slope gives the largest ninnber, drop theouter point of shoulder the difference between slope and breast-measure.

2. Length of bach- From neck-bone to bottom of Waist.

3. Width of hach-From armpit to armpit.

4. Size of breast-Around upper part of same, close up under the arms,across the back as tight as you can draw. Even measures for children.This measure gives front neck, and when smaller than slope of shoulderis used for front-arm size and height of dart.

5. W'idth Yof shoulder.-Even With bone in back of neck, down on thesea-m, as long as you wish.

6. Size of 'waist- As you-Wish it to be.

7. Side seam-From armpit to hip.

S. Size of chest- Around the largest part, up under the arms; a smootheven measure across the back. Then add one inch.

9. Size of `neck.--Take one-half of same measure from neck-bone tocenter of throat.

10. Height of dart-By the pattern-chart, use breast-measure, if thesmallest number.

11. Length of point-From neck-bone to Waist.

We will now take the measure of a lady and draft a waist: First, slopeof shoulder 7 gives No.30; second, length of Waist, 16; tlnrd,width ofback, 14g; fourth, size of breast, 33; fifth, Width of shoulder, 6.12;sixth, size of Waist, 28; seventh, length of side seam, 82; eighth, sizeof chest, 41; ninth, size of neck, 7%; tenth, height of dart, 14%;eleventh, length of point, 20%.

To draft a back, commence at left end of back neck; draw a line on backneck down the length of back; dot for slope of shoulder, 7% inches. Seewhat munber it gives. If 30, dot for length of waist 16. Then so movepatternchart that line for width of back will come at dot for slope ofshoulder. Have edge of pattern-chart on line of back; then dot for Widthof back 75; inches. Find munber of breast in back-neck scale at eitherend of pattern-chart. Lay number of breast on line of back; draw line ofshoulder; put waist-scale over dot for length of waist dot size ofWaist; draw line .from lower point of back-arm size to waistline.

Io draft side body, take the back, cut inch from line of back-form forseam; pin back onto cloth or paper; dot at either end of backform line.Lay pattern-chart on with width of back line at dot for slope ofshoulder; dot for width of back; then lay line of-waist at length ofwaist; dot in number of waist, draw side-seam arm-size, and take V oftof side body, as it is on the pattern-chart. To baste, stretch the frontshoulder, side body, and front side seam.

To draft front, lay pattern-chart on paper or cloth; draw aline on frontedge; dot at either end of chest-line; dot in front neck 33,breastmeasure; dot for height of dart 30. ize of neck 7 .lr inches fromfront neck to line of back; draw chest-line from dots for same. Get sizeof chest. Chest measures 41 inches; width of back 14%. Take back out ofchest; 14g` from 41 leaves 265. One-half of that number is 13%, This wetake for chest. For front, make a line out on chest-line linches. Laythe patternchart on with the hole over center of the two lines; dot in30 for front-arm size, which is governed by the slope. If it is lessthan breastmeasure, the slope, 7 inches, gives No. 30. Thebreast-measure is 33 inches. To get front shoulder, lay the center ofback on the line of back, lower point of neck on front-neck line; holdthe corner of back neck in place; put the lower point of back-arm sizeon chest-line; dot g; of inch from end of shoulder for shoulder offront. Lay pattern-chart on front line at dot for height of darts; drawline for height of darts; length of point from neck-hone to waist-line,20% inches; draw line at right angles with front line for bottom ofwaist; side-seam square by waist-line; draw line from upper point offrontarm size to waist-line inside of side seam at waist line, from to15 inch, according to size of chest and waist. If the waist is small andchest large, take from side seam at waistline, so as to give less in thedarts. To get the bottom and tops of dart, lay ,shoulder of front ofpattern-chart on waist-line, number of waist on side seam, and dot atwaist-line on pattern-chart. This gives back point of back dart withbutton-space on chart. Find number of waist, which will give front pointof front dart; dot at center of those points for back dart; take spacebetween darts out of front dart; get center of these darts; carry toline for height of darts for tops of the same; draw lines from point topoint with scale 0 to form darts; get length of side seam with the sideseam of the back; draw curved line from outer point of arm-size towaist-line for side seam; draw curved line with scale O over the hipfrom side seam to back dart at waist-line.

I claiml. The pattern chart provided with the double back-neck scaleshown in Fig. 1, when the distances between the corresponding lines ofthe two parts of the scale are varying, the same in combination with thefigures or other indicating characters corresponding to thebreast-measure, all when constructed and arranged to operatesubstantially as described and shown.

2. The pattern-chart provided with the frontarm-size scale shown in Fig.2, with its combination of lines, perforations, and iigures, or otherindicating-characters corresponding to the breast-measure, all whenconstructed and arranged to operate substantially as described andshown.

3. The pattern-chart provided with the device marked Dart-space in Fig.2, formed by the combination of the obtuse-angled guideedge, the linesseen, and the perforations, all when constructed and arranged to operatesubstantially as described and shown.

4. The pattern-chart provided with the device marked Center-line of backneck 7 in Fi 2, in combination with the base-line of the dart-space andthe long or front edge of the whole pattern-chart, all when constructedand arranged to operate substantially as described and shown.

5. The pattern chart provided with the double back-neck scale, the lineof back-guide, the waist-scale for back, the curved side-seam scale, theshoulder of back-scale, and the width of back-scale with itsperforations, all when constructed and arranged to operate substantiallyas described and shown.

6. The pattern chart provided with scale marked Use breast-measure forfront neck, the scale marked Use breast measure for height of darts, theline marked Lay this line on front for top of darts, the scale for topof darts No. 1, the scale for top of back-darts No. 2, the scale markedButton-space, the curved edge-guidemarked Side seam, the dartspace withits lines and perforations, the edge-guide marked Center-line of backneck, the chestscale with its perforations, and the front-armsize scalewith -its perforations, all when constructed and arranged to operatesubstantially as described and shown.

CALEB HENRY GRIFFIN.

Witnesses:

LEMUEL P. JENKs, J Enorm DAvIs.

